The following recommendations are intended as a general guideline to assist in the layout and selection of the chimney components needed for your installation. Always read and follow Installation Instructions before installing your chimney system.
Follow local building codes and have your chimney inspected. Determine the inner diameter of your Chimney. This is usually the same size as the flue collar on your appliance. See Figure 1. Follow manufacturer recommendations whenever applicable. Never use a chimney that is smaller in diameter than the flue size of the appliance it is being connected to.
It is written to provide an overview of safe installation practice. Consult your hearth professional, building officials and owners manual for the specific installation needs of your appliance.
Your dealer or local building official is the best source for additional information. You can also find a list of installers certified by The National Fireplace Institute:. View attachment The first thing we have to do is to forget about the woodstove and concentrate on the most important part of an installation — the chimney!
No — you cannot use stovepipe through the window or roof! The diagram above shows the three most common installation types. Type 1 would be common in any single story construction. Regular black stove pipe is run upwards from the stove and connects with the Insulated Chimney at a special support box located immediately below the ceiling level. Insulated chimney is then stacked up until the required height is obtained.
All chimneys must extend a minimum of 3 feet above the roof surface and 2 feet higher than any part of the building within 10 feet.
If desired, this chimney could be boxed in with wood framing and stuccoed or sided to match the home. Type 3 is similar to type 1 in that it is a single story installation, but different components are needed due to the slanted ceiling.
In this case, the pipe is supported by a bracket at the roof level, and Insulated Chimney Pipe hangs down partially into the room to connect to the interior black stovepipe.
The details as to the building of masonry chimneys are beyond the scope of this document, however there are a few safety and performance issue to keep in mind. The sad truth is that some masons spent so many years building low-temperature chimneys for oil burners, gas burners and fireplaces that the art of proper chimney construction has become almost lost. These deficiencies can be addressed during new construction by a competent mason, and a properly designed and built masonry chimney is a work of art that can last for generations.
An existing but deficient masonry chimney can often be brought up to spec by installing a UL approved stainless steel liner system. This provides an extra margin of safety as well as improves draft and simplifies cleaning. Not so fast — some thought processes are required here.
Lets start with the fireplace. If they were real smart, they fit some old fiberglass insulation around it so as to stop too much room air from escaping up the chimney made the stove draft stronger too. Not Helpful 12 Helpful You need to urgently call the gas supplier, and in the meantime, the gas should be turned off and the premises evacuated.
Not Helpful 13 Helpful Yes, as long as the union is also rated for gas line plumbing usage. Be sure to test for leaks in the union using a soapy water test, or an electronic gas line leak tester don't use a flame, or assume you will hear or smell a leak. Not Helpful 8 Helpful 9. I noticed that you suggest using the pipe tape -- I learned that pipe tape is not safe for gas lines as it can crack and shred into the gas pipes causing blockage. I was told to use the pipe goop, is that right?
You're right, pipe tape is not for use on gas lines. These are generally galvanized steel pipes and use a goop for sealing the joints. Not Helpful 31 Helpful What's the solution? Use gas rated yellow Teflon tape. Not Helpful 26 Helpful Gas piping typically is threaded clockwise to tighten and counter-clockwise to loosen.
Not Helpful 2 Helpful 4. If I am replacing an electric water heater with a gas heater, can I T off a half-inch pipe that is connected to my stove and run both the water heater and stove on the half-inch pipe?
Probably not. Gas appliances have supply requirements, a sufficient volume of gas flow per minute to allow the appliance to do its job properly. Adding a T fitting and running a parallel supply to your gas water heater will likely starve both appliances for gas when both are operating. There's actually a formula for sizing gas pipes, and while it's not that difficult, it is important.
You have to determine the BTU rating of each appliance, which helps determine the right volume of gas delivery to the furthest appliance; then you work your way back.
Hire a pro. Not Helpful 7 Helpful 8. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. You can also test your gas line by disconnecting the main line from the meter.
Install a pressure gauge with a way to fill the line with air. Then fill the line with about 25 pounds of air. Check your line for leaks with soap and water. Also, the wood stove pipe should always be inserted into the collar of the wood stove outlet. This may sound backwards considering the direction in which the flue gas is traveling. Some are concerned that the smoke can leak out of the pipe seams - however it will not.
The pressure of the draft will be moving too fast for smoke to work through the seam. The greater concern is creosote leakage through the wood stove pipe connection points.
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